ponedeljek, 01. oktober 2012

Just a bit of history :)

My first multi-pitch route was in Slovenian Alps in 2001. My first expedition was to Patagonia 2004 with another three girls. In addition to the well known in the Alps like Grandes Jorasses north face, Aiguille du Midi north face, Mt. Blanc du Tacul etc, I climbed numerous routes in the Dolomites, onsighted the “Compagni di Merenda “on Tofana di Rozes (7b), “ISO 2000” (7a+) on Cima Grande, etc.

For climbs in 2011 I’ve been awarded with the »Best Slovenian alpinist« award. I’ve been also awarded for best alpinist municipality of my living city Ljubljana in 2010, 2011 and also in 2012.
On the following page are a few of my recent best climbs.

- Patagonia 2004: Aguja Gillament (Amy coluir, 450m, 5, 60˚, female ascent), Aguja de la S (Josh Alke, 450m, 6+/4-5)
- USA 2005, Yosemite Valley and Indian Creek: El Capitan (Salathe wall, 1200m, VI, 5.9, C2+), climbing up to 5.11 on sight.
- Nepal 2006, Khumbu, UIAA International Climbing Camp for young alpinist: Lobuje East 6119m (900m in 9 hours, my first experience in high altitude climbing)
- Kyrgyzstan 2007, Ak Su: Slesova 4240m (Perestroika Crack, 900m, 5.10 A0), Central piramid 4380m (NW pillar, 900m, 5.10c), Piramid du Pamir 3605m (Lost Mountain, 900m, 5.10c), Nad Bazo (400m, 5.10b, first ascent)
- Alaska 2009, Ruth Gorge: The Stump 2200m (Goldfinger, 600 m, IV/5.11a), Eye Tooth 2960m (Dream in the spirit of Mugs, 1000m, V/5.10c), female ascents.
- USA 2011, Yosemite Valley, bouldering in Bishop and Indian Creek: climbing up to 5.11c on sight and V5 boulder problems.
- Croatia (Big Wall Speed Climbing in Paklenica) 1st place in a BWSC 2009 and 3rd place in BWSC 2010.

Dolomites in Italy are one of my favorite places to climb, because of the steep nature of the walls and a wide selection of challenging routes.
- Cima Grande "ISO 2000" (7a+, 500m), onsight ascent
- Cima Ovest "Spigolo degli Scoiattoli" (7b, 500m), redpoint ascent
- Cima Piccola "Gelbe Mauer" (7a+, 350m), redpoint ascent
- Cima Piccola "Da Corte Vecchio Aldo Nobile" (7c+, 200m), redpoint ascent
- Tofana di Rozes "Compagni di Merenda" (7b, 350m), onsight ascent
- Marmolada "Don Qixote" (6, 800m), "Tempi Moderni" (7+, A0, 1000m), "Vinatzer-Messner" (6+, 1000), three routes in one summer
- Torre Trieste "Cassin" (VII+/V+, 650m)

Slovenian mountains, with sometimes not the best rock, offer a real alpine experience even on shorter and physically easier routes. Sparse protection and long approaches also add to the complexity of the climbs.
- Triglav, Slovenia “Bergantova smer” VIII+/ IX, 350m, redpoint ascent
- Triglav, Slovenia “Na drugi strani časa” VIII, 350m, redpoint ascent - no bolt

- Grandes Jorasses north face "Mac Intyre – Colton(1200m, VI/6, M6, 2 days)
- Aiguille du Midi north face "Chere" (1000m, V/4)
- Aiguille du Midi north face "Eugster direct" (1000m, IV/5)
- Aiguile de Pelerins north face "Rebuffat – Terray" (550m, V, WI5, M6)
- Mt. Blanc du Tacul "Modica-Noury" (500m, WI5+, M5)
- Les Courtes north face "Swiss Route" (800m, IV/3)

I take sport climbig just as preparing for bigger walls so I mostly climb on sight. My highest grade in the mountains is IX/IX+ which quite the same as in the crags. But in both cases I managed to climb them quite fast. I also succeeded in short mixed climbs up to M9 on sight and icefalls up to WI5+.

In 2012 I managed to climbed:
- Gran Capucin, "Voyage selon Gulliver" (7a+, 300m) onsight
- Triglav, " Metropolis" (VII+/IX-, 350m) RP
- Triglav, "Sphinx Face" (IX/IX+/VII, 160m) RP
- Tofana di Rozes, "Sognando aurora" (7b+, 600m) RP
- Lastoni di Formin, "Spiderman" (VII+/IX-, 300m) RP
- Piz Ciavazes, "Schirata" (IX-, 235m) RP
-Valle dell Orco, Sergent, "Legoland" 7b+
- Aiguile de Pelerins north face "Beyond Good and Evil" (V, 5+, M6, 600m, female ascent)

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